Singapore River Tour

Cavenagh Bridge - Start of the journey

2009-03-05T07:28:00.000-08:00

The famous Merlion sitting at the Singapore River mouth since 2002. It was located on another side of the river further to the east of the present site. On 6 Mar 09 it suffered the embarrassing strike of a lightning bolt and its left ear fell to the ground. It has since been made good and is still drawing millions of tourists to take pictures for keepsake.

Across the road behind the Merlion, to its right but not in the picture, is the Fullerton Hotel. This old but majestic building of the colonial era stood imposingly at the original river mouth once. For many years the Fullerton Building was the Central Post Office as well as the Inland Revenue Office. Now it is a 5 star hotel and in a class of its own. Its building structure looks like it is going to be there for another thousand years.

I am now standing at the Cavenagh Bridge looking at the Fullerton, at 6pm in the evening. This bridge was named after Colonel Orfeur Cavenagh, the last Governor of the Straits Settlement. And this is where our journey up the Singapore River will begin.

Looking up the Singapore River

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On the left side of the river is the heart of Singapore's financial centre. All the tall buildings are banks. Maybank, Bank of China, Stanchart and United Overseas Bank(UOB).

Look at the clean and green water in the river. It wasn't like that for almost a century. The river was cleaned up in the the late 1970s to what it is today. The spot we are looking at in the photo was where the river boats would load and unload their cargoes in the earlier days. The huge wooden boats, called tongkangs then, were the king of the river. Their loads were rice, sugar and all the spices and food for the island. This was where the story of Singapore started.

The tongkangs had been cleared from the area when all the trading activities were moved out. You may see some of them in modified forms as river taxis or something else along the way. And oh, the water in the river were once blackish in colour, with a strong pungent stench, and with many debris due to the high river traffic. Today the water is good enough for our tap. It is now part of the island's reservoir. Many of the towkays or millionaires made their fortune from this river.

Both sides of the river have been redeveloped for entertainment and recreational activities while some have been retained as modern commercial buildings. The photo below shows Maybank on the left and Bank of China on the right.

Asian Civilisation Museum -Empress Place

2009-03-05T07:21:00.000-08:00

On the ride side of the river bank stands the Asian Civilisation Museum. This is where the arts and crafts of Asian countries are on display. The current exhibition is of Emperor Kang Xi period. You can see the colour banners on the front wall.

This is another colonial building called Empress Place Building and once housed the Victoria Memorial Hall. Many concerts were held here. And in front of the main entrance where the banners are, once stood the statue of Stamford Raffles, the founder this island for the British Empire. He stood tall on a high pedestal looking towards the sea. And we use to ask, 'Which of his hand was tucked in his pocket?' Of course none. His arms were both folded in front of his chest.

The left side of the building now houses the famous Indochine Waterfront Restaurant and Bar.

The Indochine Restaurant

2009-03-05T07:17:00.000-08:00

The restaurant moved into the premises only a few years back. It caters to the well heeled and financial workers of the city. The 3 huge buddha heads fronting the restaurant are unmistakable and in a way tell the visitors of the restaurant's origin, Indochina. The cuisine is a mixed of Vietnamese and French.

The bronze statues - immortality

2009-03-05T07:14:00.000-08:00

There were many sets of bronze figurines located around both sides of the river. These were commissioned to honour the pioneers who set foot on the island centuries ago. These two sets sit pretty on the front of the Indochine Restaurant.

The above photo shows the pioneers of the banking industry. Sitting in the middle is an Indian chettiar. The European banker on his right and a Chinese moneylender to his left. They were the forefathers of modern banking in the island.

The right photo shows a few coolies and a kepala or labour gang leader sitting on a sack of rice. The long plait of hair on the burnt back is obvious as to where they were from.

Raffles statue and old Parliament House

2009-03-05T07:11:00.000-08:00

Located behind the Asian Civilisation Museum is the old Parliament House. It is now a restaurant called the Timbre. And standing to its right, looking into the photo, is where the statue of Stamford Raffles now stood. Look at his folded arms.

And behind him, across the rivers, are the skyscrapers of big financial institutions. The towering block acting as a backdrop to Raffles is one of two towers of UOB. It is claimed that the present site where Raffles stood was where he first landed on the islandin 1819. And the surrounding area was claimed for his government offices.

Back on Cavenagh Bridge

2009-03-05T07:08:00.000-08:00

This is a tongkong which has been converted from carrying cargoes to carrying passengers and tourists. Its signature look is the pair of big eyes, one on each side of the boat. It has retained its original colour of the past except for the top that has been added on.

Looking out to the river mouth is the Anderson Bridge. Another historic bridge built by the Colonial Government and named after the Straits Settlements' Governor. Like the Cavenagh Bridge, both were made of steel. There were several bridges linking the two sides of the Singapore River.

Naked boys jumping into the river

2009-03-05T07:06:00.001-08:00

Yes, even till the late 1960s, the river was still the commercial hub of the entrepot trade. The tongkangs lined both sides of the river like cars parking side by side. There were shophouses with families living on the upper floors. There were many wayward children with too much time in their hands and jumping off the tongkangs or river banks into the blackish water was fun. No joke, but they normally did it during high tide when the cleaner water were flowing in from the sea. And they were naked children, gutsy and without fear. It was their leap of faith, showing their manhood. The bronze boys were just outside the Fullerton Hotel.

On the right photo is an old towkay(Chinese businessman), his European counterpart, a bullock cart and a mobile Malay satay stall with its owner standing by. And the European visitors were listening to their tales of the past. This is located just outside the Maybank.

The Singapore River view

2009-03-05T07:04:00.000-08:00

On the left of the river bank stood rows of old shophouses that were once the main offices and warehouses of importers and exporters of food and spices. This is Boat Quay. In front of the houses, directly next to the river, were tents built for dining under the hot tropical sun, or under the moonlight.

The shophouses were no longer used as traders' offices or residences but restaurants, pubs and other businesses.

See how clean the river is. No debris, no stench.

The tongkangs and Botero bird

2009-03-05T07:02:00.000-08:00

The tongkangs or bumboats in their new roles, plying the river to show the tourists what Singapore River is today, and the guides telling stories of yesteryears.

Hey look, Botero was here! Yes, that is his unmistakable big bird sitting at the front patio of the UOB. Across the river is where the old and new parliament houses are. And what's that, a flying saucer? Unbelieveable, that is the top level of the Supreme Court, just a short walk from the new Parliament House.

The UFO Supreme Court

2009-03-05T07:00:00.000-08:00

Above photo is the Asian Civilisation Museum. On the right is the UFO like Supreme Court. Want to go in for a spin? It would not fly off for sure. Below where the two tongkangs are is one of the river taxi station.

Boat Quay at 6pm

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The early diners and drinkers are already here filling up the tables by the river. Most are working in the finance industry, and many are foreign talents from the west. This is a very convenient drinking hole a short walking distance from the offices. And weather in the evening is just superb for a little dining, drinking and unwinding.

Bars and Pubs at Boat Quay

2009-03-05T06:56:00.000-08:00

The bars and pubs are everywhere, in every corner of this narrow lane beside the river. Just pop in and say hi, 'Give me a Tiger!' Don't worry about food. That can come later.

Manchester United in Singapore

2009-03-05T06:55:00.001-08:00

The drinking signages are all over the place. And where is this place? Manchester United! By the Singapore River? Yes, there is a Manchester United Club here and many football fans, locals and visitors as well. They will probably ask for a pint of Scottish ale in the pub.

Sumptious food at Boat Quay

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Please come in. We have everything for you to eat. It is still a wee bit early for dinner, I think.

River side dining

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The lights are on and food is ready. Tables are nicely set up by the river. A little darker and candle lights will be just perfect. You can't get it more romantic than this, in a tropical paradise.

This is the life, man!

Dining lights

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These lights will keep you company while you dine.

Looking back and across the river

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Here is the new Parliament House by the river, the seat of power. And the towering skyscrapers we left behind. From the left is Maybank, Bank of China, Stanchart, a little back is Singapore Land Building, Left tower of UOB joining the right tower by a connector. Big bird is just sitting in between them. The famous calculator building behind is OCBC, Overseas Chinese Banking Corporation. Incidently the locals used OCBC to mean 'Orang Cina Bukan Cina.' A colloquial swipe for the local Chinese who have lost their identity.

Waiting for diners

2009-03-05T06:44:00.000-08:00

Yes they are waiting for you. The waiters and waitress, including the above, are waiting for the diners to come in.

The service workers arriving for work

2009-03-05T06:41:00.000-08:00

Don't get me wrong. These are the service staff at the pubs and restaurants. Some could be musicians, singers and dancers. The Elgin Bridge, strong and solid concrete joining North and South Bridge Road. Visitors can either walk up the steps and cross over the bridge or take the underpass on the left of the steps below.

Elgin and Coleman Bridge

2009-03-05T06:39:00.000-08:00

The full Elgin Bridge above and Coleman Bridge further inland. And the buses above the bridge while the river taxis plying below. We are now moving closer to our destination, Clark Quay.

Former High Street Police Station, now MICA

2009-03-05T06:34:00.000-08:00

A section of Coleman Bridge above and the front view of the former High Street Police Station. It is now the MICA, the Ministry of Information, Culture and Arts. Did I get it right? And another taxi station below.

The underpass

2009-03-05T06:31:00.000-08:00

After this section will be the more exciting part of the journey, where the action is.

The Central Shopping Complex

2009-03-05T06:28:00.000-08:00

This is the latest attraction for the youth. The Central is being promoted as the Soho of this city state. It is meant to be fashionable and cool for the young people.

The Ord Bridge

2009-03-05T06:23:00.000-08:00

This is the last bridge at the end of the river that we will see. There are a few more bridges beyond, the Alkaff Bridge and Pulau Saigon Bridge. Further inland will be the housing estates for the locals.

The river is also starting to get narrower. Another taxi station below the bridge.

The River Point restaurants

2009-03-05T06:19:00.000-08:00

The first sight of the popular River Point complex housing some famous restaurants like The Ultimate Fried Rice, Jumbo Seafood, Cafe Iguana, A971 Cafe and Brewerks. Some early diners are already there.

Jumbo n Brewerkz

2009-03-05T06:17:00.000-08:00

There you are, the Jumbo and Brewerkz, already packed with customers in the early evening. Jumbo must be seafood.

Brewerkz is very popular with the American and European communities here. And the locals also made it their choiced watering hole. But I thought it sounded German. No, it's American food and all kinds of ale, beer and stout.

And the sun sets, lights up

2009-03-05T06:12:00.000-08:00

Another view of River Point and Brewerkz. Dining along these restaurants will also give the diners pleasant views of joggers running by the river side a level below. They could come very close to the tables.

Look carefully at the buildings. These were old wharehouses that have been converted for their new functions. The famous Zouk discotheque is somewhere behind these eating places.

Main taxi terminal at Clark Quay

2009-03-05T06:09:00.000-08:00

Looking across the river is where Clark Quay is. Those usual looking bathroom showers hanging along the river bank. What are they? They have replaced the tents along Boat Quay to act as roof for the diners. Another stretch of dinning on the river banks.

The transparent roof of Clark Quay looks more like gigantic umbrellas over the roads below. Clark Quay are rows of shophouses that have been placed under the conservation of old building Acts. And the roads in between also equally protected by the Act. No cars allowed on them.

The lower photo is where the main taxi terminal is.

Boat taxis

2009-03-05T06:06:00.000-08:00

The merry making passengers of tongkangs and river taxis taking in the sights.

Boat restaurant

2009-03-05T06:02:00.000-08:00

Another innovative role for the tongkangs. The diners must be quite pleased with the experience. They were just having fun while the early day occupants were sweating their guts out in these tongkangs, carrying heavy sacks of rice or whatever and dancing on narrow planks between the tongkangs and the riverbank.

Wine by the river

2009-03-05T06:00:00.000-08:00

Walking inland from the left side of the river there is this wine kiosk after the Central. How about sipping wine by the river? It is a very casual setting and will be great in the night when the stars are hanging in the sky. And you would not be disturbed by the traffic noise. And it is Australian WolfBlass they are serving.

Crossing Read Bridge to Clark Quay

2009-03-05T05:57:00.000-08:00

The main entrance to the Clark Quay complex. And the beautiful and futuristic umbrellas protected the old buildings below.

Quayside Seafood restaurants

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On the bridge looking down, a close up view of the food outlets and the diners.

Entrance to Clark Quay

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Visitors going down the steps to Clark Quay from Read Bridge.The Ivory Indian Restaurant is on the left. Photo is the upper floor of the restaurant. Clark Quay is the entertainment centre of the Singapore River and has a string of restaurants, bars and discos within the complex. This is an innovative restoration project to transform the whole area that is being conserved into a lively scene for fun and entertainment. An artistically designed roof covered the area which were once main roads around old prewar shophouses. Food and cuisines from all corners of the world are here. And for those who want to sweat it out they can do it on the dance floors.

The evening crowd is gathering

2009-03-04T07:45:00.000-08:00

The early birds are arriving and looking around. It was a cool pleasant evening, about 7 pm. The whole area have been converted for alfresco dining and drinking, and also for public performances.

Another view of the canopy and a darkening sky.

A ride on river taxi

2009-03-04T07:40:00.000-08:00

Passengers boarding the river taxi. The Duck Tour starts from here. Quack, quack.

The photo on the right is the taxi terminal and across the river is the Central Shopping Centre. At 7 pm the sky is still bright.

Minstrels practising their roles

2009-03-04T07:37:00.000-08:00

The service staff and musicians getting ready to play their parts. Early arrivals having a quiet time at an outdoor bar. Very peaceful isn't it? The night is still young.

Tomo Izakaya Japanese Restaurant

2009-03-04T07:35:00.000-08:00

Two photos of the Tomo Izakaya Restaurant reputed to redefine dining and wining Izakaya style. Still too early to open the door.

RennThai and Hutong Reataurants

2009-03-04T07:33:00.000-08:00

Thai and Chinese Restaurants. RennThai offers authentic Royal Thai cuisine.

Hutong is where Northern Chinese cuisine and old China charm can be found.

Crazy Elephant and The Deck

2009-03-04T07:31:00.000-08:00

The Crazy Elephant is rather misleading. It boasts of being the premier SE Asian Blue's Bar. Jam session with rock and roll and blue's legends if you are lucky enough.

The Deck is an open air bar next to the river. Drinking under the moonlight and watching the boats go by. And there is the natural breeze swiping through the bar. Feel the space and expanse of the surrounding without walls.

Sosis Snack bar

2009-03-04T07:29:00.000-08:00

For the easy and relax feeling, nothing more comfortable than SOSIS snack bar and its authentic German sausages.

Highlander and Microbrewery

2009-03-04T07:27:00.000-08:00

Nothing more comfortable than drinking in the middle of the road, minus the elements, and airconditioned too in an otherwise hot and humid tropical island. You can find anything Scottish in the Highlanders, it is a bar and restaurant.

Souvenir stall

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A little souvenir to bring home?

Forbidden City and the Arena

2009-03-04T07:22:00.000-08:00

The Forbidden City Restaurant, guarded by two Chin Dynasty bronze warriors. It is also owned by Indochine.

At the Arena, no warriors around but all the actions are inside, on the dance floor. It is supposed to have a freaky DJ called Freddy who will bring down the house.

19696654 and Lunar Bar

2009-03-04T07:20:00.000-08:00

19696654? Must be the phone number. There wheelchairs to wheel in all their customers.

The Lunar must be a Chinese Restaurant, or is it another dancing hall? No it is an Asian fusion bar. Her it is free entry for ladies!

Chinese Herbal Restaurant and The Rupee Room

2009-03-04T07:18:00.000-08:00

Is this a herbal or medicinal restaurant? It looks Chinese. Must be tonics for the body.

And The Indian Rupee Room as a neighbour. Enter the Rupee Room and everything is purple. It serves Indian fusion cuisine.

The Steak House and Yello Jello

2009-03-04T07:16:00.000-08:00

I know what is a steak house.

But what is Yello Jello? Looks more like another watering hole. Oh yes, it said 'retro bar'. It boasts of live bands and disco/pop music of the 1960s and 70s. It must be hot, hot and hot inside.

The Mongolian Tent

2009-03-04T07:14:00.000-08:00

See, the whole world is here. You can try all kinds of exquisite cuisine here. Meat and grill are their best in the Mongolian Tent.

The Marrakesh bar lounge

2009-03-04T07:09:00.000-08:00

Which part of the Middle is this from? Saudi Arabia, Egypt or Iran? Perhaps Istanbul. No, it is Moroccan. The water smoking pipe in on the table. It exudes the exotic middle eastern charm and mystery.

The Bayang Restaurant

2009-03-04T07:05:00.000-08:00

Never ask, but could either be Indonesian or Filipino. Can't be too far wrong. Actually it is Indonesian. Looking for the mystic of Bali?

People are still crossing the bridge to Clark Quay

2009-03-04T07:03:00.000-08:00

More arrivals, while I was taking the walk back. The evening lights were getting brighter.

Happy tourists

2009-03-04T07:01:00.000-08:00

Ah, two pretty and enchanted tourists from Europe enjoying the scenes on the bridge. They didn't want to talk to me, but kept putting on their pretty smiles.

Cafe Iguana

2009-03-04T06:58:00.000-08:00

Were they feasting on iguanas? The front row of tables were just next to the river. What a lovely evening to dine away.
The crowd in colourful shirts must be Malaysians.

The magical moment

2009-03-04T06:56:00.000-08:00

The river banks were lighted up. The lights changing colours every few minutes. By dark the whole river bank will be lined with young people just enjoying to be there. And free of course.

Cheerful faces flashing by in a river boat

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They were indeed having a great time. And they were waving and cheering away, all along the river. Japanese or Koreans?

A bumboat under the bridge

2009-03-04T06:51:00.000-08:00

The bridge is glowing red hot. It will look even more brilliant in the dark hours.

Dining on a bumboat

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The bumboat has come a long way from carrying cargoes to carrying tourists and to a mobile restaurant.

Billy Bombers

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A more conventional location inside Central Shopping Centre.

From glowing red to green

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On turning back, the glowing red bridge has transformed into a cool green bridge. It will keep changing its colours throughout the night.

More people

2009-03-04T06:44:00.000-08:00

More people filling up the river bank as the light faded away.

Buses on Coleman Bridge

2009-03-04T06:42:00.000-08:00

The buses being held up by traffic lights and sitting on Coleman Bridge. They could be bringing more people to Clark Quay as they turn left.

Lighting up the Xtreme Swing towers

2009-03-04T06:41:00.000-08:00

The towers waiting to take throw more people up into the air.

Clark Quay lighted

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The river taxi terminal under the lighted canopy

A colourful Elgin Bridge

2009-03-04T06:37:00.000-08:00

Ah, the bridge looking different from what it was during the day. And you could see the roof of Parliament House in the background.

Colonial time street lights on the bridge

2009-03-04T06:36:00.000-08:00

These street lights must be sitting there for a century or more. The dark sky would soon reveal the city lights as we crossed over the bridge.

Returning to Boat Quay

2009-03-04T06:32:00.000-08:00

We are now crossing the bridge on the way back to Boat Quay.

The Parliament House at night

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Asian Civilisation Museum

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What is more exciting at night is the establishment on the ground level. That's where Indochine is. The purplish light is the entrance.

Lighted windows of people hard at work

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City towers

2009-03-04T06:26:00.000-08:00

These are the buildings of banks. From the left is Maybank, Bank of China, Standard Chartered Bank, Singapore Land(not a bank) and United Overseas Bank.

Restaurants and Pub signages

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More signages

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Seafood restaurants with tables laid out

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Harvest Seafood, Perrier, Tiger Beer

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The Cavern

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The party has started.

Boat Quay's drinking holes

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Drinkers overflowing into the street

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Harry's Bar

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This is not the same Harry that Singaporeans know.

The night is still young

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The foreign talents having a good time

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The revelry will go on and on.

Paradise by the river

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Back to Fullerton hotel

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All peace and quiet. Time for a little drink at the Fullerton, enjoy some moments of jazz before retiring for the night.

For those who are still full of energy, there are many happenings inside Fullerton itself. Or cross the Cavenagh Bridge again to Indochine. Boat Quay is still full of life.

The night is still young in a city that never sleeps.